Dear friends,
Well this is much more challenging that I first thought it would be.
I am getting some email from you but it is so slow to download. it takes about 10 minutes to get one message. But, where am I going in such a hurry anyway?
After Madras we traveled to Kangipurum, a town about 60 Km from Madras. We hired a car for 1200r (we always pay foreign tourist rates as we're rather easy to spot) and went to the swankiest hotel in town. Swanky is definitely a relative term. The hotel was like a fortified, marble jailhouse. The only way you seem to be able to fet any space around you is to build a big fence. There is always security and you really begin to feel like the ugly American, but on the other hand, it's great to breathe and not be stared at and have people constantlly calling to you "Madame, madame."
We visited the old Dravidian temples here, and for a 200r donation I was invited into the inner sanctum of the temple to have my picture taken with the priest. He said a puja for me for luck in marriage, work and children so I feel rather encouraged for the coming year.
The rest of the town was truly awful. It was dusty, flat, hot and had not one tree for flower in sight. However, it is the center for silk weaving and the women were dressed in the most extraordiarily beautiful colors of silk with gold and silver threads. A real sight to see.
We are now in Mamalapurum, a small village of about 13,000 people on the coast. It's Saturday. This is a fishing village, filled with temples, shops, restaurants, european tourists and the ubiquitous Indian dogs, cows and goats. This town is much more manageable and you can walk on the streets without getting nearly run over every few seconds. Tomorrow we are on to Tanjore. We've hired a driver who will be with us for the next few weeks.
It is very difficult to get these message off so I apologize for not tellig you more. I'll try again in the next town. Namaste, MZ
